Imichil to Agoudim
Imichil
An ATM and an auberge on the road north out of town that serves westerners food during Ramadan. There’s also a good selection of fruit & veg stalls/shops in the centre.
The main route to Anemzi should be the R317 north east from Imichil then the P7320 to Tighadouine, Anfgou and Anemzi.
A dry conditions alternative could be the technical riverbed hike-a-bike, but it needs to be made obvious this is hard and safe only in dry conditions, i.e. no snow or recent rain.
To follow this, take the R317 north out of Imichil and then east just before Tislit Lake. There’s a good road/track to the settlement past Isil Lake. Passing a small settlement the route follows a track up a steep vehicle track to a col. Here the track continues, but he RotC descents from the col along a faint single track. The descent from the col can’t be done safely in snow or in wet conditions - the ground is too unstable. The track along the riverbed has been washed out and can’t be ridden either. It’s a hike-a-bike all the way to the turn east along the Asif Ouirine. Along the first section of riverbed, there’s a good campsite by row of poplar trees 2k from the turn east along the Asif Ouirine - ///irregular.contracted.scoundrel. Where the route turns east along the Asif Ouirine there are numerous river crossings which are risky if the water’s high - normally after snow or rain. This is a hike-a-bike nearly all the way to Agheddou.
From the road head at Agheddou follow the P7320 road to Anemzi. The published route turns north a few km’s east of Anfgou, but the track no longer exists and must’ve been washed out by the river. The water was too high to even attempt following this part of the route. Instead we followed the P7320, which is a typical moroccan rural tarmac/dirt road through Anfgou and then a steep climb from 1950m to 2400m. This road then drops and then climbs back up to Anemzi. We didn’t find much in Anemzi, so pressed on to the Auberge Oudaden, but this was closed. The owner helpfully pointed us towards the Auberge Quabbass at Agoudim, another 4km down the valley. This was open and is a very good place to stop.
There are no resupply points on the route we took from Imichil, through Agheddou to Agoudim and considering the speed you’ll travel at you need to stock up on food.
Agoudim to Boumia
The P7319 track north from Tagoudit to Moulay El Ghazi has been washed away. We couldn’t even consider taking this route as the water level in the river is too high.
A new road has been constructed that goes east from Tagoudit through a small settlement called Aït Chrad and loops back to the P7319 track at Moulay El Ghazi. From here take the P7320 east towards the Barrage Tamalout. This is a good road/track. After crossing the Barrage Tamalout you’ll need to pick up some food from the settlement near Aït Ouchechen if you’re heading for the the Jafaar Gorge.
Due to the amount of snow on the Jbel Ayachi range and the problems we’d had earlier in the day and yesterday with washed out roads and flooded gorges, we opted to take the P7323 road north to Aït Ben Ichou. We were also very low on food and if the Jafaar Gorge was impassable we’d have to retrace our steps and camp another night. The decision was made to head for Boumia, find an auberge and stock up on food.
The P7323 is very quite and generally (apart from one short stiff climb) trends downhill towards Aït Ben Ichou. To find food near Aït Ben Ichou you’ll need to travel further north to Aït Omghar where there are shops. Would be better if the RotC route went through Aït Omgha to provide food options.
The track from Aït Ben Ichou that connects the P7323 and P7310 is good. During the afternoon of our ride into Boumia there was a strong westerly wind so this was a tough last 15km of our day.
Boumia is a busy agricultural centre and felt a little chaotic as we rode up the Main Street in search of accommodation. There three hotels in town and all are very basic. We chose Hotel Assafir, a Google 1 star hotel that was the worst place we’d stayed at during our three weeks in Morocco. Boumia does have lots of shops and a good souk selling a wide range of fruit and vegetables. If travelling during Ramadan be sure to buy food an hour or two before sunset - places start to close.
Boumia to Ifrane
The route north out of Boumia follows a dirt track that ultimately intersects with the N29. This is okay in the dry, but very difficult in the wet. The wet sticky peanut butter mud stopped us cycling up the first ascent and it was difficult from there to the N29.
We also had a strong north westerly wind to battle against, plus increasingly frequent rain and hail showers. At Tanourdi we chose to follow the P7317 as the route had potential to be more sheltered and rejoined the RotC after about 20k. After riding for another 5k we decided to stop and head back to Boumia. The wind , rain and hail was getting worse and the route was heading into a high remote part of the Ifrane National Park. Our safety and wellbeing was more important than riding the route.
Back in Boumia (didn’t take any time to get back) we found a taxi that would take us to Azrou for 600drh. Very well run taxi rank. Although not on the RotC it looked like a better place to stay - much cheaper hotels and good food shops and restaurants. As we drove to Azrou the weather got worse, snow was settling in the hills and we both agreed we’d made the right decision to turn back. The 170km section from Boumia to Azrou is for another day.
We stayed at the Hotel School in Azrou, which was cheap, but cold. As we sat in a restaurant with a chicken tagline and a bowl of fries the snow fall got much heavier. In the morning we woke to find everything plastered in snow. Although very pretty, it would be impossible to ride the RotC route to Ifrane. Instead we chose to follow the P7223 out of town, then headed east across the N8 and took the P7217. A minor road then trends north, past Ras Elma and intersects with the P7229 that we followed to Ifrane. The hills to the east when the RotC lay were covered in deep snow.
Arriving in Ifrane we expected more hospitality that we found. A strange place with much less on offer than Azrou. I’d recommend routing the RotC through Azrou instead of Ifrane. We planned to get a taxi from Ifrane to Imouzzer Kander, which seems like another town with more to offer. After an hour waiting at the unorganised and chaotic taxi rank (much worse than the Boumia taxi rank) we rode to an auberge 20k up the N8 - Motel Ain Mersa. This Motel was the most expensive place we stayed at during our three weeks in Morocco and was no where near value for money. The owner seems friendly, but will charge you too much.
Ifrane to Fes
Due to the snow we started our ride to Fes along the N8. The road descents to Imouzzer Kander where it turns east and rejoins the RotC route. Imouzzer Kander looks like it has more to offer in the way of shops, cafe’s and accommodation than Ifrane. The P5014 out of IK is a good road. The track that leaves the P5014 and heads north towards Few had a good surface, but we could see with a bit more rain and the mud would start to cause problems. The descent from the col is wonderful. After passing a very busy quarry the track finally drops into Bhalil, where we stopped to buy food for tonights camp. We figured it would be much easier than buying food in busy Fes and the village had everything we needed.
After leaving Bhalil the RotC joins the very busy R402 for longer than it needs to. This road carried a lot of fast and heavy traffic, so I’d avoid it if I could. Looking at the map there’s a track that heads north off the R402, 1 km after joining it and just before a U bend in the R402. Following this, with a few turns, will lead you back onto the RotC into Fes. The RotC route through Fes goes directly through the Medina, which I’d avoid unless you’ve time and somewhere to store your bike. We found an alternative route through the city and to the P5005 north towards Jebel Zalagh ridge. Like all moroccan city’s the traffic is a bit chaotic, so you need to ride positively and assertively.
We found an ideal campsite just 1km up the P5005. As the road turns north there’s a track that continues east which leads to a prominently covered in olive trees. This was a perfect spot overlooking the city.
Fes to Barrage Al Wahda
This section was not as interesting.
The P5005 and then the track leading to the ridge had nice view and was obviously free of traffic. Again the surface of the track could be problematic if it’s wet. The last small ascent to the col is steep and challenging. The drop off the other side is a bit broken, but good fun and there’s some lovely views north. Cross the P5002, don’t turn left onto it and continue along the track to Hamriya where there are cafe’s. The P5002 and P5309 to the Sebou River weren’t too busy and easy to ride along. Do take the track west along the banks of the Sebou River - we saw lots of birds and the surface was okay.
Back on the P5309 there seemed to reasonably frequent settlements and small shops selling the usual moroccan basics. Following the P5309 and then the R408 isn’t that interesting, but the countryside moves by fairly quickly. Turning into Ourtzarh on the R419 we didn’t find much fruit and veg for sale, but we did arrive at the end of the day. Arrive earlier and you’ll find more fresh food. There were plenty of general stores selling water etc.
After stocking up on food we followed the R419 to our campsite. Don’t take the track short-cut as it’s too steep and broken, just stick to the road as it provides an easy and quiet climb climb. Our campsite was on a spit of land off the R419, just before it descends into a shallow valley. ///cursorily.democracies.downright. Another great camping spot.
Barrage Al Wahda to Fifi
The road along the north shore of Al Wanda rises and falls and its condition is okay. The recent wet weather has caused a few land slips which has caused the road the heave and slip in small sections. From our campsite the road climbs from 200m up to 580m through a couple of small settlements that didn’t seem to offer anything tot he traveller. It then descends back down to 200m at the north eastern tip of the Al Wanhda. Here the route follows the P5304 up a 220m ascent to then drop back down 3km to the north west. Instead follow a track that appears at the end of the descent after the P5304 crosses a river. Follow this track along the banks of the Al Wahda to where it rejoins the P5304. From here the route follows the P5304 which stays a height of between 400m and 700m for the next 45km. Over this stretch there seems to be very little in the way of resupply points, so we chose to stop at Villa petit château les oliviers just above Souk Tnine Tabouda, where a tracks leaves the P5304 and continues north. ///catwalk.cloned.uptight. Olivier allows people to camp in his garden and will provide an evening meal and a small breakfast. He can also heat water so you could have a warm shower, if you have the right equipment.
The track north of Villa petit château les Oliviers is okay and after about 7km passes through Kalaat Bouqorra, which does have a few basic food shops. North of Kalaat Bouqorra the road is tarmac and follows a broad ridge, weaving between the tops and gradually rising from 400m to 700m over the next 25km. Due to the amount of rainfall there’d been numerous landslips and the road was effectively closed to vehicles. We were able to walk our bikes around some huge holes in the pavement, over a few landslips completely covering the road and through a section of road reconstruction - thankfully moroccan construction sites are quite flexible when it comes to the health and safety of the public. It would be good to check whether this section is still open and passable by bike.
About 35km north of Oliviers the route turn north east and drops 230m into a valley. A campsite is marked here, but there’s nothing but a grassy field adjacent to the road. We were glad we weren’t aiming for this as a spot to spend the night. The road then climbs 200m up to the town of Fifi. There are numerous shops along the small high street where we bought bread and food for an evening meal and breakfast, but we couldn’t find any fruit or vegetables. For this we were directed to Bab Taza, 20km away. There will be a market here, but it wasn’t operating on the day we arrived. We couldn’t see the hotel or bakery marked on Google Maps.
Fifi to Chefchuan
From Fifi the route follows the P4107 and climbs 800m over 12km to a col, before dropping down towards Bab Taza. This is a good road, a steady climb and not too difficult. We camped about 9km up this ascent at about 1150m in a flat area with a good water supply - ///device.quirkiness.stronghold. In dry weather there may not be water here.
The descent to Bab Tara is on a good tarmac, so quick and has great view of the Jebel Lakraa range of mountains. Stock with food in Bab Taza as there’s a good range of fresh fruit and veg shops, cafe’s and a hardware store.
The route into these mountains provides some fantastic scenery. Some of it is hard riding as sections of the track on the east side of Jebel Lakraa are 20% and quite broken. The descent on the north east of the mountain starts in forest, but opens out as the route turns west near Imizzar. Here sections of the descent are very steep and broken, so take care.
From the based of the descent we just need to reach our Auberge in Azilane. This was 5 to 6km, but seemed to be full of short and very steep sections of track. The Gate d’Azilane is very good and well worth stopping at. The owners are very attentive, helpful, provide lots of food and the views from the terrace are fantastic.
The track beyond Azilane climbs 500m over 5km. This is a tough section that contains numerous very steep, broken climbs that are too steep and broken to ride. It took us 1:45hrs to reach the top. A new track has been constructed that connects Azilane to Chefchuan, but it wasn’t shown on our map, so we didn’t risk taking it. When in Chefchuan later that day we met the owner of the Gite, who confirmed the new track is very good and a much easier way of getting to Chefchuan. The descent from the top has some great scenery, but is steep and broken in sections. Take care and don’t descend too fast.
If you need camping gas there a campsite and shop close to the route as it leaves the mountain track and k=joins the tarmac road into town. I a fair drop into town, but necessary if you need supplies. Chefchuan is a large, colourful and vibrant town that contains everything you need.
Chefchaun to Tetouan
We met two RotC riders near the Gite d’Azilane who told us the section from Chefchuan to the R406 and the Oued Laou valley was muddy and not very pleasant. Not wanting to get stuck un peanut butter mud we chose to take the R412 road out of town, which joins the N2. After 5k on the N2 we turned east onto the R406 and followed this, past the Barrage Oued Laou and to the point where the RotC joins the R406. This is a quick and easy detour. The distance covered is greater than the RotC, but you move m much faster and can avoid issues with mud.
This next section of road follows the Oued Laou valley, which provides some great views and photo opportunities. Do take the track off to the left that continues to follow the Oued Laou valley. This section is one of the most scenic in the whole route. The track is fairly good, but has suffered a couple of small land slips towards the north end. We found a perfect camping spot just after a sharp right hand bend, which faced north east down the valley. Back onto the R406 you pass a few cafe’s and a campsite just before the left turn onto the P4708.
From the turn west onto the P4708 all the way to Tetuan we didn’t see any resupply points. There might’ve been some small shops tucked away, but we didn’t see them.
The tarmac road approach to the main climb is very pretty. After 7km we chose to leave the RotC route as it climbed steeply north west on a broken track. We figured this would be a long hike-a-bike from 240m up 650m. Instead we followed the P4708 road up the valley. This quickly turned into a track that climbed the head of the valley in short steep sections and numerous hairpins. The final 3 to 4km of this section contained some short but very steep climbs. A 200m long climb just below the top was the only bit I couldn’t ride. Although hard I feel this is a better alternative to the hike-a-bike and it’s mostly rideable and passes through a few settlements. The view back down the valley are great.
Over the ridge the track drops into a valley and heads north to Tetouan. The track surface is okay, but profile rises and falls steeply for about 14km, before descending towards Tetouan. We found this 14km section very hard as it came after the difficult P4708 climb. The final descent into the Tetouan suburbs is through a forest and is very pretty.
I Tetouan we made the mistake of staying in the Medina. This was a mistake as it was too busy and we felt hassled. I’d recommend staying outside the Medina or on the finger of town. The Medina is worth seeing, but be prepared to be hassled for money.
Tetouan to the north coast & Tanger Med.
The weather forecast for our penultimate day looked terrible (50mph wind at 400m), so we planned to leave the RotC route and follow the R401 to the north coast.
On the day we had to follow the N2 west for 10km before turning north onto the R401. With a strong south easterly wind behind us we easily covered about 20km in 1hr. We noticed wind turbines on ridgelines turning fast and were glad we’d chosen a low route. The R401 isn’t too busy and we had a pleasant ride up to the Barrage Hassan Ben El Mahdi. Here we stopped and took shelter from the wind behind a wall and had coffee and food. The rain started and as the road climbed to 300m so did the wind. It was difficult to stay upright and we had to be wary of being blown sideways into the path of vehicles. The long descent to the coat was wet, but at least the wind speed dropped with our altitude.