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Torridonian Traverses

On Liathach in Winter
Of the 277 Scottish Munros (peaks over 3,00 feet - 916 metres)
perhaps the most distinct and spectacular are the Torridonian giants: Ben Eighe;Liathach;and
Ben Alligin. Unique peaks carved from the ancient sandstone which amazingly
was deposited in a layer 7 miles thick. Much of this rock is topped by a distinctive
band of Quartz.
The area provides the walker and climber with a wide range of challenges.
From easy ridge walking to desperate rock and ice
routes. Late winter and early summer are ideal times to visit. The pictures
here were taken in February 1996.
All three peaks provide superb traverses and in winter conditions or poor visibility
some sections can prove problematical. In clear weather stunning
views can be had across a myriad of lochans (small lakes) to the Western
Islands, and inland to the remote peaks of Achnashellach. If you fancy walking
or climbing in this area then contact Cuillin
Guides.
Where is Torridon?
Scotland
with red dot highlighting Torridon.
ICE CLIMBING
In the right conditions the area provides excellent
ice climbing. In particular Ben Eighe and Liathach. The terraced mountain
sides collect snow and amazing icefalls develop. However the close proximity
to the sea can cause very rapid thaws. The classics of the area are Poachers
Gully and the Am Fasarinen Pinnacles.
ROCK CLIMBING
The climbing centres on three cliffs, Sgurr a'Chaorachain
(The Cioch), The Triple Butress of Coire Mhic Fhearchair, and the sea side
crags of Diabeg.
Sgurr a'Chaorachain (The Cioch)
The series of clean rock butresses at an altitude of
1300 feet (390 m). Good access from the Bealach na Ba road and often dry
in poor weather. The classic routes here are:
Sword of Gideon - Very Severe - 350 feet (104 m) - first
climbed by Tom Patey 1961
Cioch Nose - Very Difficult - 450 feet (135 metres)
- first climbed by Patey and Bonnington, 1960
The Triple Butress of Coire Mhic Fhearchair
One of the most impressive corries in the area lies
on the northern side of Ben Eighe. The lower tiers are sandstone whilst the
upper parts are quartzite. Needs a dry weeks weather to come into condition.
Approach walk is 5 miles. Some classic routes here are:
The Pale Diedre. - E2 5c - 330 feet (100m) - first climbed
Sprunt and Strange 1980
Angel Face - E2 5c - 320 feet (95 m) - first climbed
Nisbet and Forrest 1988
Central Butress - Severe - 920 feet (276 m) - a classic
trip first climbed in 1926 (quartzite tier) and 1968 (sandstone tier)
Diabeg
The main cliff of Diabeg is a huge undulating slab of
immaculate gneiss. The crag lies 15 minutes walk from the road at the small
sea side village of Diabeg. Classic routes here are:
The Pillar E2 5b - 155 feet (48 m) - a superb hairline
crack first climbed in 1983 by M Hamilton
Route II HVS - 220 feet (66 m) - brilliant slab climbing
followed by a crack - first climbed by Austin and Grindley 1975
Picture gallery
 Liathach
in Winter


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